Fever Pitch

All is quiet and back to normal at the Maritime College. The marine contingent of Santo2006 has returned to their respective countries so my work with the Frenchies is all but complete… Due to the cyclone* and inability to take any boats out to sea, work on the west coast in the forests has been postponed, so there are still a few French scientists wandering the streets of Luganville, albeit aimlessly.

So just when I thought I had run out of things to keep me occupied, something else pops up… in this case its football!

After getting in touch with the soccer officials for Sanma Province a few weeks ago, I was invited to go to the opening of the Santo Under 12 Soccer Tournament on Friday. On Thursday I met with the Development Officer for ol pikinini: Bong Shek, who, in relatively rapid Bislama, asked me to come to College du Luganville/Santo to either watch or help coach a soccer team. I didn’t quite catch the instructions or his name at the time.

Anywho, I turned up at the allotted time and wandered around trying to find something resembling a soccer team. The college is wan francophone school, so it was a case of stilted bislama and hand signals in an attempt to covey that I was here to meet someone (whose name I had not quite understood) to either watch or coach football! Argh! Eventually I was directed to the next door primary school and met a couple of the teachers: Rocky and Desmond, who proceeded to organize a game of ol pikinini for me to watch. Luckily Desmond is an Anglophone so it was a little less painful! The pikinini were really skillful so it was great to see them all in action. Eventually Bong arrived, a bag of soccer balls in hand, ready for the high school girl’s soccer practice. So in barefeet and skirt (as I’ld just come from work, unprepared) I proceeded to help coach a little and then play a small game of football with the girls. Lots of fun!

The next day saw the beginning of the Under 12 Tournament. As with any event, kustom dictates that the day must begin with a parade down the main street of Luganville. As it happened, a cruise ship had also arrived at the wharf, so there was a very festive atmosphere in town, fulup white man tourists! Cruise ship day is definitely an eye opener, but that’s another story…

So pikinini from 8 different schools, their teachers, banners for each school, the manager of the National Bank blong Vanuatu and wan white misses (that’s me of course) proceeded down the road to Unity Park, to the pikinini’s cries of “National Bank blong Vanuatu, bank blong ol man”… some not so subtle advertising for the main sponsors. With camera in hand I also became the events official photographer, snapping pics for the Daily Post (maybe I should get a part-time job as roving reporter!).

The tournament is based at Unity Park, the main venue for events, for a whole week. So every afternoon, I cruise down to the park, help set up, watch ol pikinini play football, take photographs of the kids, select under 12 rep teams, take photographs of the teachers, toktok smol bislama witem ol teaja’s mo pikinini. The skill level of the kids is great so it’s a lot of fun to watch. It’s also a laugh hanging out with the teachers who are all really hilarious, they’re all in their twenties and classic island sense of humor; hardcase fullas. And determined that I’ll speak Bislama.

Afterwards the boys go off to kava. On Saturday night, Alliance François put on a Hip Hop challenge at the chief’s nakamal, so Jess and I met up with Bong, Rocky and some of their mates for a sunset shell** and then headed up to the nakamal for a night of Hip Hop Luganville stylz. Classic.

Today is a rest day, with semi and grand final action on Thursday and Friday. So the teachers are coming up to the province this arvo for a game of volleyball.



*Yes, we’ve had our first cyclone. Early (the season officially starts 1 November) but a bit of a fizzer. Cyclone shutters were placed, tinned food purchased and pots of water filled but no wind, no rain, no nothing! Still, there’s been a couple of plus 6 Richter scale earthquakes since I’ve been here, so can’t complain.

** Worried about the potential and perceived dodginess of a sole white woman having kava witem ol Ni-Van I consulted Daniel, guru to the Wantok Girls. Apparently, as long as we have a trusted girl with us, then its alright…. I’m still dubious, especially since I’ve had a number of “yu tri kava witem Bong long Saturday nite, hehehe” comments. hmmm Me hopum tumus reputation blong me not sullied!